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I tried it and sure enough you are correct. If anyone wants to check out the manual, it's on page 242 under 'Controlling Previews with Short Cut Menus". It doesn't work like the manual says.
Thomas Emmerich
According to the Aperture User Guide, you should be able to control-click a project and choose "Update Previews" from the contextual menu. Oddly, my instance of Aperture (3.2.2) doesn't have this option in the contextual menu, no matter how many times I control click. The workaround is to select a project and then choose "Update Previews for Project" from the Photos menu on the menu bar.
Note there's a minor GUI inconsistency: if you choose a photo in a project and then deselect all photos the menu item will read "Update Previews" rather than "Update Previews for Project". It will still work the same.